Camping It Up

Only a day left until my sister and Dave arrive and I'm still some way short of meeting my deadline for updating. Ooops. It's all because we keep doing stuff! Like having fun! Damn us and our evil wanting to have fun. Ah well. For this reason, I'm going to just skim throught the details. Let the pictures do the talking!

My best friends from home, Vicky and Dom, came out to visit us here in May. They explored Seoul and Busan while we were working, and came to stay with us for the middle weekend. We took them to our favourite galbi restaurant near the apartments on the first night, then to a small bar called Free Hug, where we introduced them to soju cocktails and made a random Korean friend. He tells me I'm better looking than David Beckham and he wishes he had a nose like mine, so he is one of my new favourite people.

The next day we showed them around downtown, did a little shopping and visited the pet cafe. As the name suggests, this is a cafe (not that we saw any drinks for sale really) filled with cats and dogs. We'd been meaning to go there for a while and thought this'd be the ideal opportunity. Despite having seen the way many Koreans like to dress up their dogs in comical outfits or dye small tufts of fur bright colours, we were a little unprepared for the terror in store. The animals were all dyed funny colours, shampooed to the point that their fur was all puffy and looking a little overfed and lazy. There was even an Old English sheepdog with it's floppy fringe tied into bunches. Not an attractive look. We lasted about 20 minutes before it all got a bit too much and we had to leave.



That night we had a few work friends over and went out for a few drinks at Speakeasy. Sunday we attempted to show off Yangdong market, but it all seemed to be closed for some reason. We relocated to a DVD room instead, then went for shabu shabu. They left the next day before we went to work. It was all too brief a visit really, I wish they could've just stayed out here with us! Hopefully they can arrange another trip during our second year and come see us some more, maybe when we've got some holiday and can actually see them properly!

The main source of fun in recent weeks has been camping trips. We've been to a beautiful island called Biguemdo and camped on the beach, and we've been to a beautiful national park called Gamagol and camped on the side of the road. The first trip required a taxi ride, a bus, another taxi, a ferry and then another taxi ride to get us to our destination. It still cost less than a train to the coast at home though. There were 4 couples, a small dog and one poor single guy who had to sleep on his own (but actually knew us from reading our blog! We're internet celebrities! Wow. Hi Mark!).

We brought bags of beer, music and fishing rods to keep us busy, as well as attempting to swim in the sea. It was very very cold so the swimming was very brief, but we were definitely in the water. I have pictures to prove it. We had some tasty food (and some ramen noodles) on the barbeque, a big fire and a lot of fun. In the morning we sat around sunbathing for a while, then went to a spicy chicken noodle restaurant, took some walks, dug a big hole in the sand and buried me up to my shoulders in it. Also got semi devoured by little bugs. Eventually we had to leave and take the ferry home. On board we had more beer and were force fed enormous shots of soju by friendly Korean men.

The following weekend was the birthday of one of the guys we went camping with, Anthony. We went out to a park just outside Gwangju called Sangson Youwonji (if I remember correctly). We had another barbeque and a few drinks in the sun, watched people throw themselves off a nearby mountain strapped to flimsy strips of material, hired duck shaped pedal boats and generally had good times.

Anthony's girlfriend then snuck off downtown to prepare a secret party for him, while we kept him busy with beer and failing to get off the bus when we should. Eventually we made it to a soju room - essentially a karaoke room, but instead of paying by the hour for singing, you pay for food and drink, stay as long as you want and sing for free - where Lokhee and her friends had decorated with balloons, banners and food. We drank and sang for a few hours before heading to Speakeasy for a few more drinks and some dancing. Another good night!



The weekend following was the second camping trip. We took a couple of buses carrying all our tents, sleeping bags and barbeque equipment, only to arrive and discover that camping was no longer allowed in the national park, despite the website saying it'd fine. Undeterred, we left all our stuff by the entrance to the park and set up the barbeque next to a small pool next to a little waterfall. People paddled in the water, ate some tasty food, drank beers, used the waterfall as a makeshift waterslide and caught tiny crayfish to cook on the barbeque.

Sadly, my camera battery died before most of the excitement happened, but I assure you it was amazing. We then made our way back to pick up our stuff and debated whether to just go home or find somewhere else to camp. After about 10 minutes walk, we found a small strip of grass on the side of the road and, rather than spending anymore time walking with all the bags, set up the tents. It was a pretty quiet road, so we weren't too bothered by cars. We wandered about in the dark trying to find firewood so we could make a campfire and somehow stumbled upon a huge stash of dry wood behind a tree, so dragged it back to camp and got started. After more barbeque, music and beer, we staggered to our tents and got a little sleep. The next day Lokhee took us to an amazing galbi restaurant in Damyang, a nearby town. Instead of the usual grill on each table, a line of Korean women were sat grilling huge buckets of meat and sending them out to the waiting tables. The meat was excellent and finished off a heavily meat orientated weekend nicely.

The only problem with having so much fun on all these excellent weekends is it makes going back to work a little harder. Could be worse though, eh?

Sleeping In Shop Doorways, Pita Bread and an Island

Shortly after the departure of my parents, we found out Dan Henrickson was going to be here in Gwangju for a little while. Dan is a recruiter who gave us loads of excellent help and advice, even though we ended up getting our job on our steam. So we felt we owed him a drink and loosely arranged to meet him at Speakeasy on a Thursday night Open Mic night, thinking he'd be really busy (he has something like 70 teachers in Gwangju, 300 across Korea) so we'd just have a quick chat and a drink and then go home. As all the best nights go, one drink swiftly becomes 10 and soon we were dancing away to some sweet soul music like total fools, having all manner of giggles and making new friends. It turns out Dan is even nicer in person, so when he mentioned he was having a big gathering in Seoul that weekend we thought we might as well go along too - if only to deliver the cd I'd promised to make him! It coincided with a four day weekend, so we planned to spend a night in Seoul, then head to Gunsan and take a ferry to Seonyudo (reportedly South Korea's Polynesia...).

Being the frugal types that we are, we spent ages wandering around Sincheon looking for a cheap motel. We should've learnt from last time we came, and booked in advance! This time we were repeatedly told that it was 'Showtime' (i.e. when they get a large amount of 1 hour bookings...) and they were very busy so either full or really expensive. Eventually we found a really cheap little place above a chinese restaurant and got settled, before heading to the bar designated at foreigner hot spot of the night. En route we bumped into none other than Dan, his lovely wife Aggie and two of their Korean connections. This was handy as we didn't really have any clue where we were going. We were lead to a bar staffed by Aussies and Scots, given name badges and sent into the gradually expanding throng of teachers. Somehow, we ended up spending the whole night with one girl from Seoul and a huge group of Gwangju teachers that turned up seperately to us. We all went for galbi, chatted a lot, staggered to another bar and drank rather a lot of soju cocktails, staggered back to the first bar and drank more, hung out on the rooftop terrace and had a whole lot of fun. At some point, I decided it was time to leave and, without telling Becky (or so she claims. I think she was just so drunk she didn't understand me), went outside to wait for her. By the time she came out to find me, I'd fallen asleep in a shop doorway. But she managed to get me home to bed safely, so I began trying to sleep the whole mess off.

It didn't work all that well frankly. I woke up to realise I was very drunk still, and had to sober up while we went to find coffee and some food. We decided to head to Itaewon where one of our friends had told us there was a pita bread shop (or peter bread as we have learnt to say to avoid cross-Atlantic confusion). Regular readers of our blog (hi Mum and Dad! and Becky's Mum and Dad!) may remember our first trip to Seoul, where we thoroughly hated Itaewon. This hatred is gradually receding, if only for the number of amazing little restaurants selling all manner of exciting food. And the book shop. The pita place proved to be truly excellent and well worth the 45 confused minutes we spent walking up and down the street trying to find it.

Eventually we made it to the bus station and went to Gunsan to catch a ferry. We'd picked up somewhere that there weren't any evening ferries, but thought we'd head straight to the ferry terminal and stay in the closest motel we could find so we could get a nice early start. Saturday and Sunday had been blazing hot so we were really excited about the island trip. One very lengthy taxi ride later revealed the ferry terminal to be in the middle of nowehere on an industrial estate. Cue taxi ride straight back the way we came to a motel.

We awoke in the morning bright and early to catch the earliest ferry and really make the most of our time. We opened the shutters on the windows to discover the foggiest morning we have ever seen in Korea. Possibly anywhere.

Undaunted, we made our way to the ferry terminal and jumped on the first boat available. The fog seemed to lift a little on the way over, but was still lingering around blocking anything further than 15 metres away. So not much could be seen from the boat really. Having deposited our bags in a minbak, we took a walk around the island. Fortunately, the fog continued to clear as we walked, and we discovered we were on a very beautiful island. The only connection I could make to Polynesia was that it was a group of a lot of small islands, but it was very beautiful nonetheless. There was a distinct lack of places to eat things that weren't fish, so we settled on big pots of ramen (as far as I can tell, glorified pot noodles) for lunch, then decided to head to the beach. It wasn't quite hot enough to warrant a swim but we sat on the beach for a while relaxing and reading. After some time, Becky had dozed off and I was fully immersed in my book. I glanced up to discover that the fog had rolled back in, and I could no longer see the island across the water from us. As I watched, it continued to move in until I could barely see the sea at all anymore. 'Twas somewhat eerie. We swiftly retreated back to the minbak, having exhausted all the possibilities for walking we could handle for the day, until it was time to locate some dinner. We knew that we were going to have to have fish, we just didn't want it to be raw, so we peered in through restaurant windows until we found one with burners on the table. We managed to order a large bowl of stew with pieces of what appeared to be assorted fish which was pretty tasty. Sadly, there was no sign of a bar or aywhere to go post meal, so we bought a couple of beers from the small shop next door and went back to our room.

In the morning the weather was a little brighter, but we didn't want to end up getting back to Gwangju too late, so we went over to the ferry to go home. We met a couple of other foreigners who'd spent the night on the island and shared a cab with them from the ferry terminal back to Gunsan bus station and made our way home to Gwangju. All in all, although we didn't have the most amazing time there, it seemed like it'd be an amazing place to go in better weather, with a bigger group, especially if we prepared and took some food with us!